- #C500 clark forklift manuals
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Reason for this cryptic advice is in years of being aware of Clark forklifts, I have never seen the odd extra solenoids appearing on yours. Order a wiring harness for the truck and the wiring diagram. (He can get all these #'s together in his system and order together at once.) ģ.
#C500 clark forklift plus
Plus lots of other numbers you will need. On that card will be the part number for a wiring diagram for that truck, and the wiring harness. I need a manual.clark wants $200 for one.Just from the pics you post and the remarks you made regarding fluid leakage:ġ. Chrome on the cylinder is good, might need a new wiper but that is also easy.Įngine has a knock while cold, sound like a lifter, I'll try some detergent first before breaking her open. No hydraulic leaks that I see on the actual lift, which in nice. It is a job to get it started, seems like a carb rebuild is in order, but I knew that and it shouldn't be too bad, seems easy to get to.
#C500 clark forklift full
That being said, it shifts well, full throttle shift from low to high exhibits no slip, so I am thinking another master cylinder/ slave cylinder issue. Ebrake works well though, that would indicate the pads etc are ok and its a hydraulic leak/ master cylinder problem correct? Fun event driving it off the trailer with no brake and 2-3" of overhanging wheel since the ramps did not close tight enough.Ĭlutch is also nonexistent. Overall i'm happy, but certainly a few bugs to work out.īrakes, what brakes, they are there but only the last 1/2". Mine have been to hell and back and they just keep on working. Go to you tube and type in 61 Clark Utilitruc and 61 Clark lift C40.
#C500 clark forklift free
If you have any questions feel free to ask. Transmission slips when cold, but when it warms up it works great. I am not an expert, just someone trying to help other people out. I have learned a lot working on these forklifts.
#C500 clark forklift manuals
Many of his manuals are from US Army forklifts. He has a bunch of forklift manuals all makes for 10 bucks. If you want manuals I found a website called plans and projects dot com. I also deal with a local company which is Tampa forklift parks.
I deal with Tom/swift forklift parts on ebay. I have replaced brake systems, fabricated new radiators, panels, wiring etc. Your forklift looks to be a late 60's early 70"s model.
#C500 clark forklift serial number
Give them the serial number of the forklift and they will tell you everything about it. First I will tell you to email Clark material handling company. A 1963 Clark C-40, 4 cyl continental engine lpg and today I just rescued a 1972 Clark C500-55 forklift, gasoline from the scrap yard. A 1961 Clark Utilitruc lpg 6 cyl continental engine. I came across this thread and thought I might be of some assistance. I see it as my responsibility to shift the trans selector lever to neutral if I'm going to be idling against the brake for awhile or want to raise the mast high up in one place and feel like I need to rev the engine to reduce cycle time. I got a new master cylinder, new wheel cylinders and piped the MC direct.eliminated the left-side functionality all together. So there is a shuttle valve - same thing as an "OR" element in fluid logic - that was apparently sticking or leaking.
The function puts the trans in neutral and applies the brakes. I eliminated the functionality of the left pedal on mine. Parts were not true OEM but were like generic "auto parts" where they are built by a 3rd party supplier "to fit your make and model".no complaints about the parts - I think I used Nash Lift somewhere in Kentucky as I found them easy to deal with. A lot of messing around with gearwrenches and box ends to get all the fasteners loose, then a super heavy "final drive" assembly on each side which is spline-driven by the transmission. I changed the brakes on my avatar Clark - not that bad to do but a *lot* of bolts and I twisted off a 1/2" square drive breaker bar before I realized that 3/4" drive tools were necessary at least on the lug nuts. I would also look at the rod looks to me like a single stage mast, so right up at the top - if all is good you can rebuild the mast cylinder with a seal kit and some work - if the chroming is rusted badly at the top it could be eating the rod wiper which in turn eats the u-cup which in turn creates a leak.
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